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5 GREAT BRITISH BOULDERING SPOTS

Ready to take your climbing skills outside? The UK has an abundance of great routes - or climbing "problems" - for you to do just that. Here's our pick of the top 5 bouldering spots Britain has to offer.

Stanage Edge, Peak District

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Stanage is undoubtedly one of England’s most famous natural climbing venues, and a paradise for top-ropers and boulderers alike. This gritstone escarpment boasts scrambling and bouldering opportunities for all abilities; there are the Grand Hotel Boulders near Plantation Path, the Central and Pebble Boulders, and a number of diverse problems along the Edge itself.

Tip: Don’t expect to transfer your indoor climbing skills to exactly the same difficulty level outside. Outdoor climbing takes practise and confidence - as well as being at the mercy of the weather.

Llanberis Pass, Snowdonia

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The best bouldering in North Wales can be found in the majestic, mountainous folds of Llanberis Pass. You can choose from the crenulated Wavelength boulders on the slope behind the Ynys Ettws climbing hut, or the Cromlech Boulders which can be easily reached from the Pont y Gromlech car park.

Tip: Outdoor bouldering inherently carries added risks; it’s important to use bouldering mats and to learn how to fall safely, as well as effectively spot other climbers by protecting their head and guiding them towards the mat when they land. Practice spotting indoors and on low-level bouldering problems first, ideally with an experienced climbing partner.

Bonehill Rocks, Dartmoor

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Bonehill Rocks (SX731774) has over 100 bouldering problems, ranging from simple scrambles to some seriously challenging climbs. These granite tors sit in open moorland and just north of a car park for easy access.

Top tip: When you complete a bouldering problem indoors, you match the top hold before dropping or climbing down. Outside, you complete a problem by standing on its highest point, known as ‘topping out’. Boulder tops can be smooth without anything to hold, so topping out takes practise – start on low-level problems first.

Southern Sandstone, East Sussex

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It may not be the best bouldering in Britain, but the area’s softer sandstone presents problems which can expose weaknesses in technique, footwork and core strength. The UK’s top climbers have been known to cut their teeth here, and its easy access for Londoners is a bonus, too.

Tip: Finishing a bouldering problem outside isn’t as simple as down-climbing or letting go of the top hold for a safe landing. Outside, it’s important to always calculate your safest exit route before you begin climbing.

Dumbarton, Scotland

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Only a stone’s throw away from Glasgow, ‘Dumby’ is the home of Scottish bouldering. Its 7 basalt slabs offer excellent friction and some of the toughest bouldering problems in Scotland. In the heart of Edinburgh, climbing routes can also be found in Salisbury Crags’ South Quarry.

Tip: Clean your shoes before climbing to reduce wear on the rock. Never chip the rock or use a wire brush to clean holds (use a stiff-bristled brush instead). 

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